Macau Restarants: Robuchon A Galera, Lisboa Hotel and Casino, Macau. - A Real Classic!

Original Version Published in The Peak Magzine, Asia Edition, March, 2007

While on a shoot with Hong Kong actress Karen Mok for Discovey Channel’s VIP Weekend, I overheard some friends bragging about what they described as “unbelievably great food.” Like a pedigree golden retriever when food is mentioned, my ears perked up immediately. What was it? Where was it?

I expected to hear about an inventive Japanese place or a cool Roman café. I didn’t expect my inside tip to be a classical French restaurant.

Were my Hong Kong Chinese friends lost in some kind of epicurean time warp? With French restaurants closing everywhere from New York to San Francisco to Hong Kong. I thought French was “out” and almost everything else “in”

Putting aside my initial pre-conceptions on the future of French cuisine, it’s rich wine sauces and heavier meat entrees, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that this particular establishment was opened by the celebrity chef, Joel Robuchon.

The next surprise was that the Robuchon A Galera wasn’t even in Hong Kong, it was across the way in Macau!

Luckily, I had scheduled a visit to Macau to begin some research on the influx of Las Vegas casinos in the former Portugese enclave. I was already in a “pamper me” kind of mood and with another colleague, we were desperately looking for Macau’s culinary soul.

Joel Robuchon was a “kitchen god” to his fans and the industry in the 1980’s and 1990’s. He was a successful chef, popular international cookbook author and emerging French tv food personality.
He won his first Michelin rating in 1984 at the age of 38 when, after only two years, his first Parisian venture was given three stars making Joel Robuchon the youngest three star chef in Michelin history!
Joel Robuchon’s culinary trademark was to make masterpieces from basic - sometimes mundane - ingredients. His philosophy was simple: respect the original flavor. He is known as the creator of such admired signature dishes that they are now duplicated widely by many of the very best restaurants in the world. Dishes like: gellee of lobster with caviar in cauliflower cream; black truflle tart and potato puree…….you really can’t get more mundane than cauliflower or potato, now can you?

I was surprised – again - to find out that Chef Robuchon located his restaurant in Stanley Ho’s Lisboa Hotel and Casino.

If you’re not careful it’s easy to fill up nicely on wine and the mini-French and specialty breads overflowing on the bread trolley. I counted at least 11 different breads and breadsticks on offer that evening. We were careful, but it wasn’t easy to control ourselves!

The restaurant offers two dinner menus. A “Degustation” menu of 16 items for HK$1600 per person for those who want it all and an a la carte menu. We decided to all go a la carte. We thought it would be more fun. We were right!

A devout fan of all styles of goose liver anywhere, anytime, I started with an order of the warm goose foie gras on egg plant with caviar and my guest had the signature millefeuille of tomato and crab meat. Feeling adventurous, we also had to try the fried pigeon eggs with caviar and salmon.
In a very non-French way, we shared all the dishes and I can say that all three appetizers were delicious.

I was craving the rack of lamb….and my colleague had the lobster. The lamb racks were made - the way I like them - medium rare. I dabbed them into some great Dijon mustard for that classic touch. It really did melt in my mouth.
I would order the lobster on ravioli skin made from turnips, flavoured lightly with nutmeg, rosemary and a tangy sauce again anytime!It was terrific!

And, then of course, there were cheeses and desserts in typical, classical French fashion and, again, served all on a trolleys. I think we tried all of them! There were more than a dozen!

Without a doubt in my mind, Robuchon A Galera was the best restaurant find in Macau to date. I definitely plan to go back!